Editor’s note: This article is by Chris Mays, of the Brattleboro Reformer, in which it was first published Oct. 31, 2015.
TOWNSHEND — Big Picture Farm is doing big things.
The newest venture will see their lines of chocolate covered caramels and goat milk truffles expanded with United States Department of Agriculture’s assistance. Where these products were only sold at farmers markets and by retail order in the past, they will become available to wholesalers and thus more people going forward.
Big Picture owners Louisa Conrad and Lucas Farrell said they began down the farming path after the economy had crashed in 2008. The couple was teaching but then took on apprenticeships at a farm.
“We just fell in love with goats,” said Conrad.
“We both really loved cheese so much. We went to the farmers market in Middlebury every week to buy it,” said Farrell. “At the farmers market, we met these cheese makers and asked if they ever took on volunteers.”
The couple enjoyed their experience and later purchased the Townshend-based Peaked Mountain Farm from Ann and Bob Works, who made their own cheeses on the property. In the summer, Big Picture produces cheese twice weekly. In 2012, the farm won the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade’s gold award for Outstanding Confection for their caramels, made with milk from goats living on their property.
Currently, 40 goats live on site and the farm has seven full-time employees. Conrad and Farrell agreed they find the job rewarding.
Big Picture Farm will receive $124,280, the third largest sum from this year’s USDA Value Added Producer Grants, coming behind only to Champlain Valley Farm in Addison and Stonewood Farm in Orwell.
The caramels are being produced on a small scale, said Conrad, meaning about one day a week. Their current margins only allow them to sell that product by retail, not wholesale. Using milk from goats requires a longer process than other companies specializing in sweets, she explained.
“It’s really exciting to feel like we have the support of the USDA and that there’s a value to what we’re doing to keep the landscape working. That’s why we do what we do,” said Conrad. “So much time and effort is spent on the welfare of our goats and trying to make sure they’re just the happiest creatures out there. It doesn’t make a ton of financial sense to play it that way so this really helps us be like, ‘You know what? We’re doing something right.’”
Farrell recalled an article called “Don’t Let Your Kids Grow Up to be Farmers,” which he said exposed just how difficult farming is. Its author Bren Smith, a shellfish and seaweed farmer on Long Island Sound, explained that an “overwhelming majority” of American farmers are operating at a loss with 91 percent of farm households relying on multiple sources of income.
“It’s always been a sort of challenge,” Farrell said. “I think there is this shift in agriculture with a lot of young farmers who have really creative, value-added ideas that are just trying to still farm against all odds. It’s exciting to see that happening but also seeing the government starting to recognize and support that effort. I think it’s really important that the government does that. It sort of helps build momentum so more small farms are able to also enter into that.”
The farm had received the same type of USDA grant back in 2012, just a year after their start. That approximately $40,000 helped launch the business.
The grant is an annual opportunity but noted was the “intimidating” grant writing process.
“With USDA grants, when you apply, there’s very strictly defined budgetary tasks assigned to the project,” said Farrell. “This one is very similar in the sense that it helps pay for the labor and the production. It also helps with the marketing surrounding introducing a product to the market and the packaging.”
Without the cash flow to attack all those areas at once, Big Picture again sought USDA funding. They filled out the grant application without assistance. And the positive feedback from people enjoying their caramels only reinforced their desire to make the product more largely available.
Aside from the 50 percent match Big Picture will put up, Conrad said they will also need to purchase some new machinery.
Conrad showed the Reformer the farm’s “cheese cave,” milk tanks and vacuum pumps used in their operations on Peaked Mountain Road then their facility on Grafton Road where all packaging and shipping happens. Staff now are mostly busy preparing caramels for the holidays. Half of their business is done in the fourth quarter, she said. Towards Christmas, a couple extra employees are needed.
Conrad said new products are constantly needed in order to stay fresh in people’s minds. So, the grant will be used as a way of continuing innovation at Big Picture.
