Dutchess Farm
Volunteers McKenna Hayes, left, and Jaya Davis harvest arugula at Dutchess Farm in Poultney last week. Photo by Adam Federman/VTDigger
[P]OULTNEY โ€” Rutland Area Farm and Food Linkโ€™s โ€œglean teamโ€ coordinator, Mary Bilecki, says the organization received a gift of 1,000 pounds of fresh corn this summer from a couple of farms in Wells. More recently sheโ€™s gotten hundreds of pounds of butternut squash from a Rutland farm, most of it blemished or oddly shaped and therefore not considered up to snuff for the market.

Itโ€™s both a gift and a curse: Bilecki has to figure out how to distribute or process these large donations. In the case of the corn, Bilecki gave more than half of it to a new program run by the Vermont Farmers Food Center in Rutland that provides families with fresh local food. The rest she processed for freezing.

Mary Bilecki
Mary Bilecki is RAFFLโ€™s glean team coordinator. Photo by Adam Federman/VTDigger
But gleaning, an agricultural term that refers to the gathering of crops left in the field after a harvest, usually involves far more active labor. RAFFL, part of the Vermont Glean Network, has about 100 volunteers and works with about 25 farms in the area. In the summer they work with up to 15 farms on a weekly basis. Last year they harvested more than 36,000 pounds of produce, which found its way to local food pantries, schools and shelters like the Open Door Mission.

However, as Bilecki points out, the amount of usable produce salvaged from farms in Vermont pales in comparison to the vast quantity of food that goes to waste every year. According to a recent study by Salvation Farms, a nonprofit devoted to making use of surplus food, 14.3 million pounds of vegetables and berries from Vermont farms is lost every year. Based on surveys completed by 58 farms in nearly every county in the state, the number โ€œhighlights the great opportunity to place more Vermont-grown food onto peopleโ€™s plates,โ€ the authors write.

On Thursday morning Bilecki and two volunteers were hunched over a row of arugula at Dutchess Farm in Poultney. The farm, run by Stephen Chamberlain, sits on about 10 acres in a remote wooded area just south of Castleton.

Chamberlainโ€™s been farming for 31 years and has worked the fields in Poultney for more than a decade. At any given time, he typically farms 4 to 5 acres and uses the rest for cover crops. In the past Chamberlain donated excess food to the Castleton-Hubbardton food shelf or trucked it to the Open Door Mission in Rutland.

Stephen Chamberlain
Stephen Chamberlain of Dutchess Farm in Poultney. Photo by Adam Federman/VTDigger
But farmers can hardly afford to spend time harvesting and distributing surplus produce. The gleaning network allows them to donate far more of the otherwise unused food at little or no cost.

According to the Salvation Farms survey, the top reasons farmers did not harvest food were blemishing, lack of confidence theyโ€™d be able to sell it, and lack of available or affordable labor.

โ€œWhile some of the edible produce that is left unpicked by farmers is captured by gleaners,โ€ the authors write, โ€œa large percentage is turned under in the field or fed to pasturing animals. It is this food โ€” that which never makes it onto peopleโ€™s plates โ€” that we consider food lost in the field.โ€

According to the report, greater access to markets, incentives for farmers, and expansion of gleaning and food rescue operations could help reduce the waste.

After bagging the arugula, volunteers McKenna Hayes and Jaya Davis boxed it up for transport to the Vermont Foodbank site in Rutland, which has a large walk-in cooler that RAFFL uses. Every Monday Bilecki takes stock of whatโ€™s been harvested during the week and then figures out where itโ€™s going to go.

Thereโ€™s no shortage of interested partners, including the Open Door Mission, Rutland County Parent-Child Center, BROC and Meals on Wheels. Bilecki also makes regular deliveries to food shelves throughout the county.

Since its inception in 2009 the Rutland glean team has harvested and distributed more than 130,000 pounds of fresh food. Hayes, who is getting her masterโ€™s at Vermont Law School, says itโ€™s important to understand the connection between farms and the local food economy. Plus it gives her the opportunity to get her hands dirty.

This summer she and Bilecki spent three hours harvesting 500 pounds of potatoes in the hot sun. โ€œI think itโ€™s really important to know what goes into it,โ€ Hayes said.

And what it can yield. According to Bilecki, โ€œVermont could feed itself so easily with the food it has.โ€

Twitter: @federman_adam. Adam Federman covers Rutland County for VTDigger. He is a former contributing editor of Earth Island Journal and the recipient of a Polk Grant for Investigative Reporting. He...

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