I expected the toilet paper aisle to be empty, but what surprised me, on a panic-buying trip to the supermarket last week, was the onion bin: a long, wooden shelf, empty save for a few forlorn, translucent, yellowing skins. I took that empty bin as a healthy sign, an indication folks are actually planning to cook — not just microwave frozen pizza — during whatever-this-is we are going through.
And that’s not surprising. Lots of Vermonters are really good cooks. Those who aren’t might now have found a reason to get better. In China and South Korea, it’s been reported, folks have been making and streaming “Quarantine Cooking” videos, issuing each other challenges via social media to get creative with just a few ingredients. There are worse ways to spend a pandemic.
In a state that prizes “fresh and seasonal” as much as Vermont does, it might feel weird to turn to canned, dried or frozen foods, as we may truly have to if it comes to a full-scale lockdown. So, it might be time to get more cozy with your pantry and freezer. And with recipes for using the foods you store there.
Here are a few. They are basic, but satisfying. Please consider them a neighborly offering of a few tried-and-true, simple combinations for getting by with the food on your shelves.
For those who love to cook and feed others, the new “social distancing” guidelines are especially disorienting. Food is something that usually brings people together; it’s upsetting that we can’t come gather over dinner to trade stories, restore our courage, offer solace. But if you can’t share a meal, at least you can share a recipe. Bon appetit!
Notes
— Many of these recipes call for canned beans. Drain and rinse them well before using. If using dried beans, soak overnight and cook as usual. One cup dried will yield about 3 cups cooked. There are about 2 cups of beans in a 15-ounce can.
— Packaged stock is expensive and usually a bit blah; if not making your own, try broth made with bouillon as a substitute (recommended: “Better than Bouillon,” a paste sold in jars).
Recipes
BLACK BEAN SOUP (serves 4-6): In a pot, combine 1 (16-oz) jar salsa (as hot as you like), 2 (15-oz) cans black beans, 3 ½ cups veggie or chicken broth, 1 (28-oz can) whole or diced tomatoes, 1 (11-oz) can corn kernels (or 2 cups frozen). Cover, bring to a low boil, reduce heat and simmer at least 15 minutes (more is better). Serve. Optional toppings: chopped scallions, chili peppers or cilantro; sour cream or plain yogurt; shredded cheese (Cheddar, Colby or Jack); hot sauce. Good with corn tortillas or corn bread.
WHITE BEAN AND TOMATO SOUP (serves 4): In a pot, combine 1 (24-oz) jar spaghetti sauce, 2 cups veggie or chicken broth, 1 cup water, ½ cup small pasta (orzo, ditalini, elbows or chopped spaghetti), 1 (15-oz) can cannellini beans (white kidney beans), dried oregano and basil (unless you have fresh). Cover, bring to a low boil, then simmer for 15 to 30 minutes; pasta should be quite tender. If you want to sacrifice one of those onions you panic-purchased, sauté it with garlic and some hot red pepper flakes before you add the other ingredients. A spoonful of pesto on each serving is delicious, but not essential.
WHITE BEAN AND TUNA SALAD (2 to 3 servings): Spoon 1 (15-oz) cannellini beans (white kidney beans) into a shallow serving bowl. Top with 2 (6-oz) cans tuna, drained. Drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and season with dried basil (fresh if you have it), salt and pepper. Optional additions include chopped red onion or scallions, black olives (kalamata or niçoise are nice), chopped (or cherry) fresh tomatoes.
PANTRY PASTA: These toppings work with ¾ to 1 pound of cooked pasta.
- ANCHOVY (OR NOT) & SPINACH PASTA: Saute a bunch of garlic (4 cloves? 6? 8? your choice!) in a generous amount of oil. Sprinkle in hot red pepper flakes, and stir in 1 (2-oz) can flat anchovy fillets (chopped, with the oil they were packed in), until the anchovies more or less dissolve. (If you hate anchovies, leave them out; you will essentially have pasta “aglio e olio” — garlic and oil). Add 1 (10-oz) package of thawed frozen spinach and some of the pasta cooking water until the mixture is sauce-y enough. Toss with pasta. Optional topping: chopped toasted walnuts.
- PASTA WITH CHICKPEAS & DRIED TOMATOES: Soak a handful of dried tomatoes in boiling water for 15 minutes (unless you have oil-packed kind). Saute 2 or 3 cloves garlic and 1 diced onion (optional) in a generous amount of olive oil. Sprinkle with hot red pepper flakes to taste (optional). Stir in 1 can of chickpeas, 1 (10-oz) package thawed frozen spinach, and the soaked tomatoes (keep the soaking water). To make it more “sauce-y” add some pasta cooking water and/or the tomato soaking water. Toss with pasta and serve with grated Parm, if you have any.
- KITCHEN SINK PASTA: Soak a handful of dried tomatoes in boiling water for 15 minutes (unless you have oil-packed kind). Saute 4 cloves garlic in oil and sprinkle in dried oregano, basil, hot red pepper flakes (optional). If you have 2 or 3 chicken breast halves, dice and saute them in the oil (chicken is optional, but makes it heftier). Add 1 (8-oz) can tomato sauce, 2 (6-oz) jars of marinated artichoke hearts (drained), the dried tomatoes, a couple tablespoons capers, and pitted black or green olives to taste. Serve over pasta, and pass the grated Parmesan, if you have. (Thanks to my Calais neighbor, Carol Beatty Owens).
MEATLESS CHILI: In a large pot, saute 3 onions in oil. Add 1 (4-oz) can of chilies, 1 Tb. chili powder, 2 Tsp. paprika, 1 Tsp. cumin, 1 Tsp. sugar and stir. Add 42 oz canned tomatoes, 2 cans red kidney beans, and ⅓ cup uncooked bulgur. Canned hominy is a tasty addition (but optional). Cover, bring to a boil, then simmer until chili is thick, at least 20 minutes. Add water or broth as needed. All the optional toppings for the black bean soup work here.
RISI BISI (4 servings): Pronounced Ree-cee Bee-cee in Italian, and sounds way cooler than “rice and peas.” Saute an onion and garlic in olive oil. Add 3 cups cooked rice and 2 cups frozen peas. Add ½ to 1 cup veggie or chicken broth (if using leftover rice, it might soak up liquid quickly, but you don’t want this dish to be too soupy). A splash of dry white wine or vermouth is good. Stir in 6 strips cooked, chopped bacon or some diced cooked ham, if desired. Cover and heat through. Serve with grated cheese (optional).
“FANCY” HOME FRIES: Saute an onion (optional) in oil. Add as many large sliced, cooked potatoes as you have people, plus one for the pot (in other words, if you are serving 4, use 5 potatoes) and fry, slowly, until golden. Season with salt and pepper. Top with thawed frozen mixed vegetables, or any canned or cooked fresh vegetables available; at this point you can also add chopped, cooked bacon, or chunks of ham (meat is optional). Cover and heat through. Remove cover, add a generous amount of grated Cheddar or Jack, cover again until cheese is melted. Serve with hot sauce on the side. (Thanks to chef Jimmy D. Kennedy of JDK BBQ Catering in Plainfield).
